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| |
|
Differences
between top types |
|
Pinpoint vinyl is a smooth vinyl, whereas grain vinyl is has a grainy look
and feel to it. It's kind of like the difference between a smooth concrete
deck and a deck that has a slight non-skid surface to it (due to a concrete
coating having a bit of sand mixed into it). The earlier Cabs up to about
'84/'85 came with pinpoint vinyl and later Cabriolets came with grain vinyl.
Technically, there is no difference between canvas and fabric. Both canvas
and vinyl are types of fabric, therefore "canvas" is the more accurate word.
|
|
White canvas
tops |
White canvas tops are available
at Electron Top. However, like
white canvas shoes, white canvas convertible tops would be a nightmare to take
care of. |
| Canvas
vs. vinyl |
Contrary to common belief, one is
not better than the other,
nor is one more durable than the other. Both can and will last 10 years or more if properly cared for
(during summer and winter) and both
require regular maintenance. Many think canvas looks better, but those are personal
opinions. Canvas tops are more expensive than vinyl tops.
Selecting your new top is entirely up to your needs and your preferences. |
|
Swapping
tops with another Cabriolet |
Tops can be swapped; all
tops are the same, it's the headliners that have slightly different styles.
However, be aware that the 1980-1981 frames are different from the rest. |
| Top replacement costs
& suppliers |
The roof on a Cabriolet is
made up of 3 layers: outer shell (top), insulation pad, headliner. You
can buy the top, in it's entirety or one part of it, on your own and install
it yourself or take the car and top to an upholstery/top shop for them to do
the work. You can also take the car to an upholstery/top shop for them
to purchase the top and install it. Each option has its own monetary
cost:
|
Part |
Cost* |
Shop Labor |
Top Suppliers |
|
Pinpoint vinyl top |
$130+ |
$300-900 |
AABestCo
Cabrio World
eBay
Electron Top
J Bugs
M&T Manufacturing
Volkswagen Dealers
World
Upholstery |
|
Grain vinyl top |
$150+ |
|
Canvas top |
$300+ |
|
Rubberized horsehair insulation pad |
$100+ |
|
Vinyl headliner |
$100+ |
|
Side cables |
$15-25/pair |
|
Rear tension cable |
$25-150 |
|
* cost from
on-line/catalog sources, not dealership or eBay |
A DIY top replacement takes two people for a
faster and easier job. With 2 people it takes, on average, 6-10 hours; with
1 person who has never done it before takes, on average, an entire weekend
(roughly 16 hours); however, it's best to grab someone to help remove and
re-install the rear window and rear tension cable. Read all
instructions prior to
attempting a top replacement.
When replacing the top, the tension cables
should be replaced as well. If the headliner and/or insulation layer are in
poor shape, it's best to replace these when the outer shell is being
replaced as they cannot be replaced without removing the outer shell.
For top shops in your area,
look in the phone book for a shop that's been in business for several years
or ask around (dealers, fellow convertible owners, clubs, etc.), or look in
local ads (newspaper, AutoTrader) for Cabriolet ads saying "new top" and
politely call the person. Call the shop and ask if they've done VW
Cabriolets/Rabbit convertibles and, if so, how many. Ask for references, if
need be. When the shop has been chosen, make it clear from the very
beginning (and put it in writing on the contract) that the top replacement
should look exactly like the old one from an installation standpoint: rear
tension cable should not be showing, the rear window should be straight and
centered, the top should fan-fold down with little assistance, and the sides
above the windows should not be arched. Do not leave the shop before inspecting the replacement job
thoroughly. |
|
Replacing
the
top's struts |
If your top's struts have seized, they can be
replaced with new ones.
OEM Lift-O-Mat part number: 155 671 997 A
Sachs-Stabilus-Boge replacement part number:
SG401018
As of September 2007,
the following places carry the aftermarket replacement strut:
Rock Auto,
Auto
Parts Warehouse and through special order at your local Pep Boys.
Thank you to briano1234 of
the152.com for the info! |
|
How
to put the top down |
-
Pull locking
handles down
-
Grasp the locking handles
(one at a time if necessary), pull the handle/push the top down to
disengage the retaining hooks, and then swing handles up again
|
|
-
Grasp the front edge of the top and push up; then fold top to the rear
-
When folding the top down, tuck
the material neatly into the center crevice of the top linkage
-
Firmly press down on left
and right rear portion of the collapsed top until locking mechanism is
securely engaged (should hear a <click>)
Power tops: Handbrake should be engaged and
the key in the ignition in the battery-on position (engine must be
off). |
 |
|
|
How
to put the boot on |
-
Unlock, if necessary, and open trunk lid
-
Pull knob located on left side near luggage compartment opening to
release safety lock
-
Keeping trunk lid open,
release seatback from latched position by pulling side strap
-
Fold seatback forward
onto the rear seat cushion
|
 |
-
From rear of car slide
boot evenly over collapsed top; secure hooks to the loops above trunk
lid (not necessary; just make sure that boot is down as far as
possible)
-
From inside the car,
attach edge of boot to the Velcro fasteners on underside of parcel
shelf and secure sides of boot with the straps and hooks/snaps
provided
-
Return seatback to its
upright position
|
 |
|
The 1980-1981 convertibles had tops that
did not go down as far as the later Cabriolets; as a result, their
boots are a touch larger. Also, the boots for these years had snaps
rather than Velcro and elastic straps mentioned above. |
|
|
How
to put the top up |
-
Remove boot, if installed
-
Unlock the top on both sides by pressing
the locking knobs down (see picture at right)
-
Grasp a locking handle and pull the top up
(WARNING: If the top will not pull up, do NOT force it or damage
to top components may occur! Press the locking knobs down while pulling
up on the top, one side at a time; top should now be fully unlocked for
you to pull it closed).
-
Pull a handle down, push/pull the top down
and swing the handle back up, making sure that the retaining hook is
fully locked into the retaining bracket -- you should hear a <click>
when the handle and hook are locked into position; repeat on other side
-
Double check that the headliner is not
rolled under anywhere, particularly at the rollbar and behind the rear
windows
NOTE: If the J-hooks are difficult
to latch, be sure the rear windows are not causing the problem;
sometimes, with the rear windows up, the top will not unfold forward far
enough for the latches to engage all the way. Roll the rear windows
down, latch the top, and roll the windows back up. |
 |
|
|
Where
to buy a boot for the top |
|
Used: VW forum classifieds and eBay (average cost is $60).
As with anything else on eBay, it's buyer beware: Some sellers (or, more
accurately, scammers) simply re-use old pictures and describe the boot as
being in "like-new condition!" when, in fact, the boot is an over-priced
piece of crap. Ask to see pictures (and check the date stamp of the
pictures) of all
sides of the boot before committing to buying it to make sure it's in good
condition and contains all of its parts!
New: Volkswagen Dealer, Cabrio World, M&T Mfg. (cost is approx. $300).
|
|
Top
boots are not all the same! |
|
All boots have snaps on the
sides, but see the table below for the differences (note: the A-B-C labels
were created for this site and are not official Volkswagen style labels).
|
Car/Boot |
Years |
Boot Style |
|
A |
1980 - 1981 |
Snaps across the front; no hooks in back |
|
B |
1982 - 1991 |
Velcro straps in front; elastic straps
with hooks (or snaps) at sides in front; hooks in back that fasten to
loops on the top above trunk lid |
|
C |
1991.5 - 1993 |
Same as B but with cut-outs for rear
shoulder belts |
Using the table above:
|
Boot |
works with car... |
but not with car... |
|
A |
A |
B, C |
|
B |
B;
will work with A, but you'll need to add
Velcro strips to the underside of the parcel shelf and the boot will not
cover the bottom 3-4" of the convertible top |
C |
|
C |
C;
will work with A, but you'll have to live with
cut-outs and you'll need to add Velcro strips to the underside of the
parcel shelf and the boot will not cover the bottom 3-4" of the
convertible top;
will work with B but you'll have to live
with cut-outs |
-- |
|
|
Storage bag
for the boot |
This site's creator makes a top boot storage
bag.
Click here to see/order one. |
|
Cleaning
products |
|
Cleaning Vinyl Top &
Boot |
Cleaning Canvas Top |
Cleaning Headliner |
Vinyl Conditioner & Protectant |
|
Simple Green®
+ water + damp cloth + plastic scrub brush. For best results, do not
dilute the product before applying; instead, spray the product on, scrub
a small area then spray the area with a bit of water and scrub again,
then wipe off.
A concoction of 5
parts water, 5 parts Simple Green®
and 1 part bleach is said to clean and restore a dingy white vinyl top
to white.
Vinyl cleaner
(follow bottle's directions).
Mr. Clean Magic
Eraser + a damp cloth. |
Water only or use a
canvas-safe cleaner such as
Raggtopp cleaner. |
Simple Green®
(see first column).
Mr. Clean Magic
Eraser + a damp cloth. |
303 is said to be the best.
Other vinyl and leather
conditioners are on the market; visit your local auto parts store for a
selection of products. |
|
|
The
top is leaking |
|
Convertible tops will leak for
the following reasons:
* Top's outer shell has cuts or tears in it
* Top is not seated properly against windshield
frame and/or windows (adjust J-hooks -- on handles -- as a first step)
* Windows are not closing as they should
(adjust windows inside door; remove door panel)
* Rubber seal at top, front of door windows is
folded under
* Top normally leaks a bit when water is
sprayed directly at the junction points (top seal and windows), like when
washing the car
* Rear window seal has lost its glue resulting
in a loose-fitting seal (upholstery glue or silicone can solve this problem)
* Small gap just below/behind the corner caps
(what the boot snaps to)
|
|
Water
is dripping from the latch handles |
|
The track where the
front seal slides into is attached to the top mechanism by three or four
screws; in between the track and the top there is urethane or some kind of
silicone that dries out over time, causing water to flow down into the car.
Undo it, sand down both sides and reapply the silicone or urethane.
Thanks
to ANDROID184 for supplying this info!
|
|
There
is horrible wind noise with the top up |
Tighten up the J-hooks, but do not over-tighten
them to the point where it's difficult to latch the top closed (i.e., there
should be slight resistance, but not enough to struggle with); otherwise,
the latches, handles, etc. could break. If this does not solve the problem,
adjust the header/seal alignment:
click here for a how-to. If that still does not solve the problem, try
putting a thin bead of silicone along the header or seal. If that doesn't
fix the problem, the seal along the top of the windshield frame is probably
too far gone and needs replacing. |
wTopw
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