Engine

Engine Code	Install Period	Locations	Engine Type	Catalyzed/ OXS	Engine Size	Horsepower	kW	Compress. Ratio	Top Speed	Lifter Type*	Min. Fuel Octane
DX	8/82 - 7/92		CIS, K-Jetronic	No/No	1.8L	112 @ 5800 rpm	82	10:1	107mph	Solid Hydraulic	98RON
EG	1/79 - 7/82		CIS, K-Jetronic	No/No	1.6L	110 @ 6100 rpm	81	9.5:1		Solid	95RON
EJ	8/79 - 7/80		CIS, K-Jetronic	Yes/Yes	1.6L	76 @ 5500 rpm	55	8.2:1	93mph	Solid	91RON
EM	8/79 - 7/83		Carburetor	No/No	1.6L	75 @ 5000 rpm	55			Solid	91RON
EN	8/80 - 7/83		CIS, K-Jetronic	Yes/Yes	1.7L	78 @ 5000 rpm	57	8.2:1		Solid	91RON
EW	8/83 - 7/92		Carburetor 2E2	Yes/No	1.6L	75 @ 5000 rpm	55	9:1	96mph	Solid Hydraulic	91RON
EX	8/83 - 7/93		Carburetor 2E2	No/No	1.8L	90 @ 5200 rpm	66	10:1	102mph	Solid Hydraulic	98RON
FA	1/79 - 7/79		Carburetor 34-PICT-5	No/No	1.1L	50 @ 6000 rpm	37	8:1		Solid	91RON
FN	1/79 - 7/79		Carburetor	No/No	1.6L		55			Solid	91RON
FV	1/79 - 7/79		Carburetor 34-PICT-5	No/No	1.6L	65 @ 5600 rpm	48	7:1		Solid	91RON
GG	8/79 - 7/83		Carburetor 31-PICT-6 or 7	No/No	1.1L	50 @ 6000 rpm	37	9.1:1		Solid	91RON
GH	8/79 - 7/80		Carburetor	No/No	1.5L	65	48			Solid	91RON
HN	8/83 - 7/86		Carburetor	No/No	1.6L	75	55			Solid	91RON
HK	8/83 - 7/86		Carburetor 2E2, 2E3	No/No	1.3L	55 @ 5400 rpm	40	9.5:1		Solid	91RON
JB	1/79 - 7/83		Carburetor 34-PICT-5	No/No	1.5L	70 @ 5600 rpm	51	8.2:1		Solid	91RON
JH	8/83 - 7/93		CIS, K-Jetronic	Yes/Yes	1.8L	95 @ 5500 rpm	70	8.5:1		Solid Hydraulic	91RON
JJ	8/82 - 7/83		CIS, K-Jetronic	No/No	1.8L	112 @ 5800 rpm	82	10:1		Solid	98RON
KT	8/83 - 7/89		CIS, K-Jetronic	No/No	1.8L	112 @ 5800 rpm	82	10:1	116mph	Solid	98RON
2H	8/89 - 7/93		Digifant	Yes/Yes	1.8L	98 @ 5400 rpm	72	10:1	102mph	Hydraulic	91RON

*NOTES:

All engines are 4-cylinder, 8-valve, transverse-mounted, SOHC, non-interference engines.
All engines have a firing order of 1-3-4-2 .
From 1984 to 1989, Cabriolets in North America received the same 1.8L, CIS fuel-injected engine as the Rabbit GTI.
Solid/mechanical lifters were installed up to 1987; hydraulic lifters installed from 1988 onward. The difference between the two: Solid lifter cylinder heads have 5 camshaft bearing caps, the hydro lifter cylinder heads have 4. NOTE: Hydro lifters cannot be used in a solid lifter head and vice versa. Know what you have before buying parts!
Please see the Specifications Page for engine/transmission cross-reference specs
How your engine works: http://www.familycar.com/Engine.htm
= USA & Canada; = Europe (including UK)

Engine code location

The engine code is located at the top of the block, at cylinder #3, just below the spark plug. The engine below is stamped "JH".

Definition of "transverse" and "non-interference"

Cabriolets have transversely-mounted engines. This means that the engine has been rotated 90° from how an engine normally sits in the engine compartment; i.e. what is usually the front of an engine (where the belts are) is on the right side of the engine compartment.

Furthermore, these engines, in stock form, are known as non-interference engines. This means that the timing belt can break while the engine is running and not cause serious damage to the valves and pistons, provided that the engine is not running at a very high rpm when the belt breaks.

The right/left sides of a car are based upon you sitting in the car, facing the engine compartment. Therefore, the right side of the car = passenger side; the left side of the car = driver's side (those in RHD countries, the "driver's" and "passenger" sides would be reversed).

Engine firing order & operating cycle

The firing order on all 4-cylinder, 8-valve Volkswagen engines is, as mentioned above in the tables: 1-3-4-2. The rotor spins clockwise from the #1 cylinder wire, closest to the engine block, around to the #2 cylinder wire.

(If you happen to have swapped in a 9A engine, the firing order is still 1-3-4-2, but the rotation is counterclockwise from the #1 cylinder wire, closest to the engine block, around to the #2 cylinder wire.)

Volkswagen's 4-cylinder engines operate in a 4-stroke manner:

	Stroke 1: Induction	Stroke 2: Compression	Stroke 3: Combustion	Stroke 4: Exhaust
Intake valve	open	closed	closed	closed
Exhaust valve	closed	closed	closed	open
Piston travel	downward	upward	upward	upward
Combustion	none	initial phase	combustion/post-combustion phase	none
CIS: Because CIS is a continuous injection system, fuel is built up at the intake valve until the valve opens allowing fuel to enter the combustion chamber. Digifant: Digifant is a pulsed injection system; therefore, fuel does not enter the combustion chamber until just before the intake valve opens. Each valve opens only once per rotation of the engine and all valves are closed twice per rotation.

Diagnostic system & check engine light

Year	Diagnostic System
1980-1989, CIS	none
1990-1993, Digifant II	none
1991-1993 California Digifant I	OBD I

NOTE: Only Cabriolets equipped with Digifant I engines have the OBD I diagnostic port; furthermore, an OBD II diagnostic tool cannot be used to pull fault codes from an OBD I system!

The check engine light usually means that there is a fault in the emissions system. Plug an OBD I scan tool (or use a bypass method -- coming soon) into the diagnostic port (under the shift boot), pull the stored fault codes and cross reference them with the list of fault codes below and possible causes/remedies.

Code	Fault	Cause
4444	No faults recorded
2212	Throttle valve potentiometer	Defective potentiometer or wiring
2312	Coolant temperature sensor	Defective coolant temperature sensor or wiring
2322	Intake air temperature sensor	Defective intake air temperature sensor or wiring
2342	Oxygen sensor	Defective oxygen sensor or wiring
2141	Knock sensor	Defective knock sensor or wiring. Control unit not recognizing knock signal
2341	Oxygen sensor control exceeded	Air intake system leaks, CO adjustment incorrect, sensor wiring
2323	Air flow sensor potentiometer	Defective air flow sensor potentiometer or wiring
4411	Fuel injector	Check fuel injector wiring
1111	Control unit	Defective control unit
0000	End of fault code sequence

V-belts

1984-1993

No A/C, no P/S	9.5x950mm	Alternator	026 903 137 C
No A/C, with P/S	9.5x730mm 11.2x866mm	P/S to water pump Alternator	026 145 271 054 903 137
With A/C, with P/S	9.5x630mm 12.5x947mm 9.5x730mm	Alternator to A/C A/C to water pump P/S to water pump	027 903 137 068 260 849 G 026 145 271
With A/C, no P/S	9.5x630mm 12.5x947mm	Alternator to A/C A/C to water pump	027 903 137 068 260 849 G
Timing belt	--	--	056109119A

1980-1983

No A/C, no P/S	9.5x950mm	Alternator	026 903 137 C
No A/C, with P/S	9.5x730mm 11.2x866mm	P/S to water pump Alternator	026 145 271 054 903 137
With A/C, with P/S	9.5x825mm 12.5x1030mm 9.5x825mm	Alternator to A/C Alternator P/S to water pump	068 903 137 AQ 055 260 849 E 175 903 137 D
With A/C, no P/S	9.5x850mm 12.5x1025mm	Alternator to A/C A/C to water pump	055 903 137 055 260 849 E
Timing belt	--	--	056109119A

Gaskets

Valve Cover

Oil Pan

Other

It's wise to upgrade your 3-piece valve cover gasket to a 1-piece rubber gasket: You will need to install shoulderless studs, but no gasket sealant is required. The rubber gasket is re-usable should the valve cover need to be removed, and rubber gaskets are more leak-proof.

Order the upgrade kit from German Auto Parts.

It's wise to upgrade your cork valve cover gasket to a rubber one. No gasket sealant is required and rubber gaskets are more leak-proof.

The rubber gasket upgrade is available at German Auto Parts.

Oil and oil filters

Oil

Oil filter

Oil dipstick

This can be quite controversial; positive and negative comments are said about all oil types and brands. Most agreed upon, however, is using 20w-50 in the warm summer months and 10w-30 in the cold winter months, or 15w-40 year-round (those in year-round warm climates can use 20w50 year-round).

4.0L with filter change (fill the filter with oil before installing)

3.5L without filter change

The Oil Bible

Bosch (part #3421)

Mahle (part #OC 47)

Mann (part #W719/5)

Mobil-1 (part # M1-205)

STP (part #S2870A)

Volkswagen (part #056115561G)

Wix/NAPA (part #51088)

Drain plug washer part #N0138492

Fram is an inferior product; it is advised that you not use Fram oil filters on your Cabriolet.*

1980-1988: the difference between the min. and max. marks is 1.0 L (1.1 US qt.)

1989-1993: the difference between the min. and max. marks is 0.75 L (0.79 US qt.)

*Contrary to common belief, all oil filters listed above, including Fram, have anti-drainback valves. Anti-drainback valves are built into the filters to prevent the filters from emptying upon engine shut-off when the filters are installed on engines requiring them to be "upside down". Volkswagen's 1.5L, 1.6L, 1.7L and 1.8L engines installed in Cabriolets do not require this anti-drainback valve because the filters are spun on "right side up", thereby allowing gravity to retain oil in the filter. The important valve that these engines require is the bypass, or relief valve. Should there be a restriction in the filter due to cold weather, contaminants, or thick oil, the low oil pressure present in the filter opens the relief valve allowing unfiltered oil to enter the oil passages in order to keep the engine lubricated (unfiltered oil is better than no oil at all). All filters listed above, including Fram, have this valve; Fram, however, uses a rubber diaphragm (among other cheap parts), rather than a spring-loaded seal like the others do, hence it being labeled as inferior.

Air filters

Filter	Part #	Cost
Mann (OEM)	049 133 843	$10-15
Fram	CA 3660	$7-10
K&N	33-2002 99-5000 (recharge kit)	$50, but is permanent & requires maintenance; is said to increase horsepower slightly

Oil on the air filter

Oil on the air filter is commonly referred to as "compression blow-by". Oil is getting into the air passages via the main vent hose connected to the valve cover. Some oil on the filter is normal; an air filter coated with oil is sometimes an indication of worn rings and cylinder walls. To reduce the amount of blow-by, clean the valve cover (including the vent screen) and air hoses and install a camshaft cover.

Rabbit performance parts

Rabbit camshaft: up to '87s: Yes; '88+: No (use a cam

intended for an A3 8v ABA). The exhaust from the cat-back

is slightly different, too.

Cam gear: same
Valve springs and retainers: same
Malifold and downpipe: same

Information courtesy of "-vertigo-" of VWvortex.com

Upgrades to CIS Cabriolets: same
Lower airbox and filter: same
Throttle body: same
Turbo / supercharger kit: same
Clutch: same

Tranny: same (well, close enough)
Shifter linkage: same
Brakes: same (again, close enough)
Strut bars: same
Engine mounts: same

Testing the cruise control system

Check for vacuum leaks. If the system still does not operate, use this procedure.

Engine vacuum line diagrams

1980-1983 CIS	1984-1986 CIS	1987-1989 CIS	1990-1993 Digi ~ Auto	1990-1993 Digi ~ Manual	Carburetor 2E2	Cruise Control
Diagram	Diagram	Diagram	Diagram	Diagram	Diagram	Diagram
NOTE: 1986 Cabriolets with VIN 21001 to 30000 follow the 1987-1989 diagram.
To find vacuum leaks: Use a nonflammable brake cleaner and slowly spray the vacuum hoses/tubes one at a time while the engine is running at idle. When the engine stumbles, you've found the leak. If a leak is found, do yourself and the car a favor and replace all of the vacuum lines... preventative maintenance!

IAT (intake air temp) sensors

CIS	Digifant
Does not have one!	The IAT is located inside the mass-airflow sensor (MAF) on top of the air box.
This question is often asked by those who have bought, or are looking to buy, a performance chip. CIS engines are fuel injected mechanically and, therefore, do not have the electronic controls that Digifant engines have. Buying a performance chip for your CIS-equipped Cabriolet is a waste of money, and if it somehow gets installed on a CIS engine, will do much more harm than good. You simply cannot chip a CIS engine! Digifant engines, however, can be chipped to gain several hp's (Advanced Motorsport makes the best one for the Digifant engines). CIS owners who want to increase hp's need to go about it mechanically, not electronically, by upgrading the exhaust manifold, downpipe, cat, cat-back, cold air intake (with K&N air filter), cam and cam gear, and installing a larger throttle body (click here for further discussion).

Adding a cold-air intake

You can add a cold-air intake, but it depends on the type of intake you intend to install. The cone-shaped filter-style intakes, for example, that sit inside the engine bay just off of the fuel distributor are not cold-air intakes! Instead, they suck in the heat produced by your car's engine! The same can be said for "Swiss-cheesing" the stock air-box. A proper cold-air intake for these cars is routed in such a way that outside air can be drawn in, much like the stock configuration. In fact, you can modify the stock set-up to allow for the intake of more ambient air than the stock set-up provides; see the links on the How-To page.

Oil pressure problems

Click here to read about the oil pressure system in these cars.

Engine noises

Noise Type	Sound	Problem	Remedy
Knocking	Rapid, multiple knocks in rapid succession that have a high pitch; occurs only when the car is being driven at road speed and a sudden load is applied to the engine (extra fuel is sent to the pistons).	Pre-ignition. Fuel is igniting before the spark plug sparks due to carbon build-up in the cylinder head. The valves are being forced to move in the wrong direction at the wrong time, which is damaging the pistons.	Switch to premium fuel for 6 months; after 6 months, switch back. If the knock continues, see your mechanic; head work will need to be performed.
Knocking	Deeper, slower, more rhythmic sound than pre-ignition knock. This sound is heard immediately upon beginning to drive and varies with engine RPM.	Rod and/or bearing wear (naturally with age of the engine, or prematurely). The internal space between the bearings has widen to the point that oil no longer completely fills that space.	Do not drive the car if this sound is heard! Have the car towed to your favorite repair shop.
Clicking	Lighter sound than a knock, but also varies with engine RPM; can be heard at idle.	Faulty lifters and/or debris.	Sometimes debris frees itself and is flushed into the oil filter; replace the oil and filter. If this doesn't solve the problem, one or more lifters will need replacing.
Squeak/squeal/chirp	High-pitched squeal; your car sounds like a pissed-off pig.	Belts are worn/loose/slipped/wet. A belt tensioner is faulty/worn. A belt pulley is misaligned. In some instances a faulty water pump will chirp.	Replace worn belts; tighten loose belts; realign slipped belts. Replace belt tensioners. Replace/realign belt pullies.
Groan	A deep, rhythmic groan or growl.	The water pump is dying.	Replace the water pump (and thermostat and coolant while you're at it).

Symptoms of head gasket failure

Early warning signs

Terminal symptoms

Oil in the coolant (brownish coolant and/or oil sludge in the coolant reservoir)
Coolant in the oil (produces a milky-like substance seen on the underside of the oil cap and in the oil in general)
Abnormal/unexplained loss of coolant
Overheating (sometimes intermittent)
Oil leak(s) around where the engine block mates with the cylinder head

Extremely high temperature readings (coolant temp gauge jumps to the right, then drops to normal*)
A long trail of steam out of the exhaust pipe (coolant is entering the cylinders); sweet (not in a good way) smelling exhaust
Oil will be converted to a substance resembling milky coffee
Over-pressurized cooling system causing hoses to burst and/or radiator/tank caps to blow off/leak

*The temperature will jump to "hot" when a pocket of super-hot steam envelops the gauge sending unit; when the gauge drops to normal that pocket of steam has been chased away by the coolant. This can also indicate a cracked cylinder head as well as a failed head gasket. One good reason to have this gauge: With just an "idiot light" for the coolant temperature like modern cars have, you'd never see this warning sign and by the time that red "idiot light" blinks, it'd be too late.

If early warning signs are leading you to suspect impending head gasket failure, have a repair shop conduct tests on the cooling system to verify possible head gasket failure (they'll check, in part, to see if combustion gasses are leaking into the cooling system which cause the system to over-pressurize). Try not to allow the head gasket to blow completely or the cylinder head could become warped, among other internal damage.

Symptoms of piston ring & valve stem wear

If the spark plugs are continuously getting fouled, chances are that oil is leaking into the cylinders, which indicates possible piston ring and/or valve stem wear.

Cleaning the engine bay

A clean engine is a happy engine! Why? A dirty engine generally runs hotter than a clean one. Therefore, keeping your engine bay and the engine itself clean should be part of your regular maintenance. Additionally, keeping the underside of the hood tidy allows for quicker, easier leak detection (and your mechanics appreciate working on a clean engine!).

If you don't want it professionally cleaned up, you can do it yourself. Using a combination of a steamer, a degreaser such as Simple Green® and a high-pressure washer along with a sponge, brush, toothbrush and/or towel should do the job with lots of muscle power. Be sure to cover the electric and electronic components/connections with plastic bags before beginning.

Engine swaps

Yes. Click here for compatibility information and click here for the great What Should I Swap In?! debate.

The table below is under construction.

Existing Engine	Swapping To	Fuel System Engine Mngmnt.	Parts Required	Notes
1.6L/1.7L/1.8L, 8v	1.8L, 8v JH	CIS ÆCIS	Engine (fuel pumps, fuel distributor if replacing 1.5-1.7L)	Straight swap into any year CIS Cabriolet.
1.8L, 8v JH	1.8L, 8v 2H	CIS Æ Digifant OBD I (Digifant I only)	Complete engine Wiring ECU Fuel pumps Fuel filter	Not a straight swap due to the fuel injection systems.
1.8L, 8v 2H	1.8L, 8v 2H	Digifant OBD I (Digifant I only)	Engine	Straight swap into any year 2H Cabriolet.
1.8L, 8v 2H	1.8L, 8v JH	Digifant Æ CIS OBD I (Digifant I only)	Complete engine Wiring Jetronic ECU Fuel pumps Fuel filter	Not a straight swap due to the fuel injection systems.

1.8L, 8v JH	1.8L, 16v	CIS	Complete engine Larger (stock) air flow sensor 16v pressure plate Splice motor's wiring harness into existing harness	WUR/CPR mounts to driver's side of 16v's cylinder head. Runs better with CIS-E. Scirocco 16v system is best; straight swap. A2-based 16v systems will require custom exhaust down-pipe and relocation of fuel lines to passenger side or use of