|
| |
| Type
& amount of coolant used |
|
Use phosphate-free coolant/anti-freeze that is mixed with distilled water (see
mixture table below). VW's Autobahn brand (part #ZVW 237 105) is
recommended, but not required. You should never mix coolant/anti-freeze brands or types, even
to top off the expansion tank or radiator; always flush the system before
switching brands or types (ex: blue stuff to red stuff) -- corrosion and
leaks will result if brands or types are mixed.
| Mixture Percentage |
Amount of Coolant |
Amount of
Distilled Water |
| 50/50 -- min |
2.3L |
2.3L |
| 60/40 |
2.76L |
1.84L |
| 70/30 -- max |
3.22L |
1.38L |
|
the above is based on the 4.6L needed to fill the
system (with an expansion tank) |
| Mixture Percentage |
Amount of Coolant |
Amount of
Distilled Water |
| 50/50 -- min. |
2L |
2L |
| 60/40 |
2.4L |
1.6L |
| 70/30 -- max. |
2.8L |
1.2L |
|
the above is based on a 4L container of coolant |
|
| Coolant expansion
tank |
| From 1979-1982, Rabbit
Convertibles did not have a coolant expansion tank; they had the old style
system wherein the coolant was
added directly to the radiator via the radiator cap. From 1983 to 1993,
Rabbit Convertibles and Cabriolets came with expansion tanks; some 1982
models may have the bracket for the expansion tank but VW continued to use
the old cooling system on most, if not all, 1982s.
If you would like add an expansion tank to your
system you will need the following parts: newer style radiator, hose from
radiator to expansion tank, expansion tank, hose from expansion tank to
coolant return pipe and a coolant return pipe. |
| My
Cabriolet doesn't start when hot, but does start
after it sits for 15+ minutes |
| Is it an automatic? Automatic
Cabriolets are notorious for this problem due to the poorly-located starter
(next to the exhaust manifold). The best solution for this problem is to
install a starter relay:
click here
for a how-to. |
| The cooling fan
won't turn on |
| Check the fan thermoswitch:
Disconnect the thermoswitch connector; using a jumper wire, make a
connection between terminals (2-speed fans: low speed is red/white wire,
high-speed is red/black). If the fan runs, the thermoswitch is faulty
and needs to be replaced. If the fan fails to operate, check for
voltage at the thermoswitch connector (red wire). If voltage is not
reaching the connector, check fuse #1. If the thermoswitch is good and
the fuse is good, the thermostat (in the water pump housing) may be faulty. |
| The cooling fan
won't shut off |
| Replace the radiator fan
switch and/or the radiator fan relay. |
| The coolant temp warning light flashing |
| Coolant level is low; coolant
is leaking; coolant is getting too hot. Possible causes: burst hose;
cracked hose; loose hose clamp(s); clogged/restricted hose(s); faulty
thermostat; faulty coolant reservoir (or radiator) cap; clogged/leaking
radiator; faulty coolant/water pump; incorrect ignition and/or valve timing;
electric cooling fan not switching on. If all of the preceding are found to
be okay, the temperature gauge sending unit and/or level sensor ('90+) and/or the gauge itself could be
faulty. |
| Radiator cards |
| The purpose of the cards is to
direct airflow through the radiator with little air escaping
around the radiator; this enables the cooling system to work more
efficiently. New ones are no longer available. The cards were originally
made out of cardboard which, over time, slowly disintegrates. Rather than
sourcing "new" cardboard radiator cards, you can easily make new,
long-lasting ones yourself out of sheet metal from your local home
improvement center.
Click here for the top card's approximate dimensions. |
| Oil coolers |
| Only Cabriolets with JH
engines have oil coolers; "why?" remains to be answered. In Europe, only the JH, 2H, DX and KT engines
came with oil coolers.
If your Cabriolet is without an oil cooler, you
can install the OEM cooler (additional coolant hoses will be needed), or an
aftermarket cooler that utilizes air, rather than coolant, to dissipate heat
from the oil. |
|
