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Getting the radio out of
"SAFE" mode |
|
1987-1989:
Turn radio on.
Press am/fm + Scan buttons;
1000 should appear then go blank; release the buttons; use the 1 2 3 4
buttons to enter the security code (press the 1 for the thousands digit, 2
for the hundreds digit, 3 for the tens digit, 4 for the ones digit --
press these numbers repeatedly to cycle through the numbers for that
particular digit); press am/fm + Scan buttons again. Code should now be
entered and the radio should function as normal.
1990-1993:
Turn radio on. Press Mode + Scan buttons;
1000 should appear then go blank; release the buttons; use the 1 2 3 4
buttons to enter the security code (press the 1 for the thousands digit, 2
for the hundreds digit, 3 for the tens digit, 4 for the ones digit --
press these numbers repeatedly to cycle through the numbers for that
particular digit); press Mode + Scan buttons again. Code should now be
entered and the radio should function as normal.
If you don't have the security code, you will
need to remove the radio and take it to your local Volkswagen dealer along
with your car's VIN. They may charge a fee, but they will be able to
obtain the security code for you. |
| Removing the OEM factory radio |
| Bend two 6-inch sections of a wire coat
hanger into U-shapes, the ends being as wide apart as the holes (top to
bottom, not left to right) in the head unit (or purchase radio removal
tools where-ever car radios are sold). Insert tools into the holes, push
outward then pull; radio head unit should slide out. |
| OEM
speaker
size |
|
Car Year |
Front Speaker Size |
Rear Speaker Size |
|
1980-1981 |
4x6" |
none |
|
1982-1990 |
4x6" |
3½" |
|
1991-1993 |
5¼"
w/ 1" tweeters near mirror remote |
4x6" |
|
| Accessing the rear speakers |
| Pry off the cover of the window crank,
remove the screw and pull the handle off. Then, gently pry the panel off
using a long, flat-head screwdriver. |
| Upgrading
the speakers |
| It's best to stick with the OEM size, but
you can install larger speakers. Depending on the dimensions, some fit no
problem while others may take a bit of modifying. Those with pre-1991
Cabriolets can install the speaker grilles, front speakers and door
pockets from a 1991+ Cabriolet. And of course the speakers can be
upgraded to more modern, better sound-producing speakers;
BestBuy,
Crutchfield,
Circuit City and others have
compatibility searches. Will you need to install an amp?
That's entirely up to you and depends on what type of system you're
installing. Installing what are essentially stock replacement
speakers do not require an amp, even if you're running new 100w speakers
off of the original 45w head unit. |
| The Aktiv system |
| An amplified stereo system installed on
'91-'93 USA Cabriolets. Read all about it by clicking
here. |
| Replacing the antenna |
| You must remove the driver's side wheelhouse liner to
gain access to the antenna housing and cable inside the fender to replace
the antenna. |
| Wiring
in a new head unit/radio |
| Modern head units have an accessory-on
(ACC) wire, something the Cabriolets do not have. Not connecting
the ACC wire can result in the car's battery being drained, unless you
remove the head unit's faceplate whenever the unit is not in use. How,
then, is the ACC wire connected? Most people tap into the yellow/black
rear window defroster switch wire since it is the most readily accessible
switched power wire (defroster switch does not need to be switched on to
power the head unit). If you'd rather not cut the wire, simply pull/push
the connector/wire
out of the switch harness and connect it to the to the appropriate head
unit wire and defrost switch via new wires with spade terminals (click
here for a diagram). Wiring the head unit this way, however,
results in the key needing to be in the battery-on position in order to
power the head unit while the engine is off. |
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